![]() ![]() Do this several times for both X and Y axis, take note of how accurate it will return to zero according to the dial indicator. Then command the printhead to move away from it for a rather large distance and then make it go back to the position you zeroed your indicator. Fix it to the printbed, have the measuring tip rest against a know flat surface on your printhead. I'd suggest you use a dial indicator for that. Longer belt can obviously stretch more.Ģ.) Test how repeatable your motor positions are. Since the nozzle is ultimately what needs to be moved precisely and repeatedly, that little play or slop could be anything from a loose screw in your printhead assembly to belts not tight enough, loose or non-round idlers (leading to variable belt tension as the printhead moves), even the drive belts themselves being probably not tight enough or even not resistant enough to stretching - CoreXY systems usually use longer belts than the other drive systems like carthesian or delta, hence they are more prone to slop due to belts stretching. That can have multiple sources:ġ.) Mechanical slop: If the nozzle is statically hovering somewhere, can it be made to wiggle and how much force does that require? That little bit of play in there might manifest itself in the rather off surface finish of sidewalls. Well the lines being extruded on top of one another are not perfectly aligned. ![]() My z rods are t8x8 (2mm pitch and 4 starts, 8mm size) My steppers are still also near impossible to skip by hand at 0.78. but it has more than enough torque at 0.55. if i use 0.7-0.6 it gets TOASTY since it's a weird pancake stepper. i run them at 0.78 i think? cause of the heat they generate in when printing abs gets too stupidly hot!įor my extruder i use 0.55. I tried both 0.9 and 0.85 for my current without a difference. I also have an SKR V1.3 incoming which i'll use sdcards with marlin again after since I don't like a few things about klipper! I use tmc2208 in tx only uart on a ramps (also tried a trigorilla before) i tried turning off 256 microstepping once and it made zero difference. I think the wobble was caused by the flimsy plastic parts? and tbh at 300x300 i don't expect 1 motor to cut it Yes i use dual z motors so the wobble has been fixed. i use 0.04 on klipper think? If you want i can give you an exact number! I use pressure advance on direct drive too. ![]() Printed in Amazon Basics Red PETG on and Ender 3 Pro.Click to expand.mine is direct drive. I have included a step file if anyone wants to use this has a base for their own design. I have not yet tested sufficiently to comment on the longevity of the part but if the fan is doing its job printing in PETG or stronger should be sufficient. I have found the additional clip enhancements for the Dragon provides improved grip to the V6 heat sink. It may be better to attach the fan prior to clipping to the heatsink has the fan fixings will reinforce the part I also included an additional amount of material to the top edge of the duct to provide some additional strength when clipping. I remixed this great thing by kulfuerst with a scallop in the right hand side to allow more clearance for the heater cables in some of my compact 4010 fan duct designs. There are two brackets, one allows for use with the provided springs.ĥ.This can be used in conjunction with my revised XY Joiners at this link:Ħ.The other components required can be found at the original thing here: The position of the X endstop adds to this making an overall reduction of approximately 10mmģ.The fan ducts are based generally on my recent Hydra Duct design.Ĥ.The offsets for the BLTouch are x= 22 y= -37. My second version which includes a X optical endstop.ġ.The overall width of this things is only 6 mm wider than the original Scott3d assembly so therefore should not offset too much build volume. This is a compact dual 4010 duct assembly for the Hypercube Evolution. Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at. ![]()
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